–by ARLO
As I am writing this we are dockside at Pape’ete, Tahiti. We are back in the world of traffic, fire sirens, restaurants and grocery stores. Several weeks ago on the island of Raiatea, we were at the farthest point west we’ll reach this year, 152° West.
After several weeks in Raiatea and her sister island Taha’a, we left Raiatea bound for Mo’orea, with a one night stopover in Huahine. On the last morning of this upwind, up-sea passage, we were lucky enough to get calm winds, calm seas, and a great view, with Mo’orea’s imposing peaks on one side of us and the sun just peeking over the horizon.
Only several hours after anchoring in Cook’s Bay, we rowed ashore to the prearranged resort, and there was our Grandma Nance waiting for us!
We had an incredible week with Nancy, full of hiking in the woods, dinghy sailing, swimming with sharks and stingrays, fruit shopping, and lots of other fun activities.
It was crazy and awesome to see our Grandma Nancy in French Polynesia, and it was a nice break in the routine of our trip.
After all of the time in Mo’orea with friends and family, we sailed one day to Tahiti, and then tied up in downtown Pape’ete.
Then, the very day that Nancy left us, we met another friend of ours, Eloise, who by chance had booked a flight to Mo’orea at the same time that we happened to be there.
Contrary to what many people are expecting when they arrive, Pape’ete is just a city, and a relatively dirty, noisy one at that.
When I compare this city to to the remote Marquesas, Tuamotus, and even the Leeward Society Islands, I find that I prefer the remote islands over Pape’ete.
Although I am not especially moved by Pape’ete, we have had some fun experiences here, like eating dinner at the roulottes (food trucks), shopping for fishing gear at the marine supply stores, and getting a tour of Tom Cruise’s mega yacht, and these experiences have made our time here more enjoyable, along with the fact that we were fore warned of what to expect by our friends on other boats.
Now that we have arrived in Pape’ete, we have reached a turning point in our trip. now we will be heading back east to the Tuamotus, where we will meet our friend J.T., for the rest of the trip. From the Tuamotus, we will sail five days to the Marquesas, to get a better wind angle to leave on a two and a half week passage to Hawaii.
During our time in the Society Islands, and Tahiti in particular, we have been getting spoiled on city life. There will be some things we will miss heading back into the remote islands, but it will be a relief to get away from the hustle and bustle and overfished waters of the Tahiti, and back to the crystal clear water and plentiful seafood of the Tuamotus, and then back to the rugged scenery of the Marquesas.
I’ll leave you with a few additional pix, including some of our own sketches.
Arlo,
So neat to see G’Ma Nance surrounded by all of you in that gorgeous part of the world.
Your pictures and descriptions bring back memories of my time in Mo’orea, Pape’ete and Tahiti. I miss those fabric prints!
So close to us! You guys looking great! hug hug hug hugs! xc
How wonderful to have a little “piece”of home visit you on your travels,such a treat.
Love the pineapple pics especially the one where they are hanging in the front looking so massive!
I thought at first they were fake spongey ones like those bizarre big hands some people wave about at sports events.
But then I thought why on earth would they have fake spongey pineapples taking up so much room.
Love the drawings,most excellent
OK then,till next time.
Over and out -Jocelyn
Hey- so great to get this update! Thanks for writing it. You all are looking brown, and Alma’s hair is practically blond, and there’s Nancy right in the middle of it all– super fun to see pictures! XOX
Always a great read! Can’t wait for the movie adaptation of your family’s adventures. 😉 Hugs to you all!
I’m so happy that Nancy was able to visit!
So glad that Nancy made it there safely and had such an awesome time with all of you. That’s wonderful. Loved the update on all the various islands and experiences.
You guys have some serious artistic talent. I can barely draw a stick person!
I love all the details you tuck in. It’s the next best thing to being there ourselves.
Keep up the great work.
With love from Kansas,
Lou Anne
Thought of you while Nancy was there. So happy you could all be together in such a beautiful place. You did Chauncy proud.
Alma and Arlo have grown so much on this trip! Janie & I miss you guys. We know you’ll have many more adventures on the way back to the mainland. Love the pics and stories. Our best always.
Dear Arlo,
What a wonderful glance at your daily adventures. Thank you for keeping us dreaming and traveling with you. Your sketches are really wonderful. I just messaged you all. We miss you.
Xoxo
I am charmed by all your adventures and experiences. Wonderful that family and friends can join you on a leg or two of the trip. What comes after Hawaii? Will you head home then? Loved the photos – you all look so tan, healthy and happy. Wishing you continued fair winds and a safe passage. Kaye
Arlo, thank you for sharing your experiences & photos. You all look very healthy & happy. I had no idea that all 4 of you were accomplished artists. I still have one of your drawings of Thora on my desk. Your skills continue to advance. We look forward to hearing about the next chapter of this fantastic family adventure. With love, Linda (& Steven)
Your artistic talents are jealously noted! How wonderful that Nancy was able to make the trip and surprise some of you. Oh, that we could do the same! Keep up the good work and good times.
Really like the photo of the four of you. You are looking so healthy and happy. This trip is amazing , we love to be able to share all these adventures with you.
Hi all,
Your travels as described through your words, artwork and photographs have taken me on a stunning voyage from my armchair back here in SF. The candid installments of opinions and revelations animate the mix of adventure and hard work – and all the surprises and sorrows in between. Of course I especially like it when you include a few of your sketches. Wishing you all the best and happy trails. I look forward to the next installment of fascinating facts and stories from the South Seas…
Hi All-
What a pleasure to hear from you Arlo. You are a great writer! I just enjoyed this post with my dad who had sailing adventures there in French Polynesia, Hawaii and Alaska in 1989, 90 and 91. I enjoyed his knowledge about what is to come for your crossing to Hawaii. Will you be going to Hilo in Hawaii?
Love to all your family!
Jana
Hi Arlo, Alma, Caitlin and Jason from Kansas! The pictures of Mo’orea make us reminisce about our trip there, so happy to hear you got to pamper Nancy! We talked on the phone with her, she said she didn’t want to leave! Love to all, Dennis and Tammy
Fantastic! Great writing Arlo. Yes, I also remember Pape’ete to be a stinky dirty and hot city. And, very expensive. But worth it for all the other joys of the Society Islands.
So, now do you start to back track to the Marquesas and then up to Hawai’i?
I couldn’t help but notice the jelly glasses for drinks in one of the early pics. Esther (Nancy’s Mom) would be proud.
Also, the sketches are VERY good!
Mark
Great commentary from Debonair. We’ve never been to that part of the world, except through pictures and now through your stories, drawings, and pictures. You all look great – tanned, fit, and happy.
So wonderful that Nancy could join you in Tahiti. Chauncey, Beth, and Gary would have loved being there, too.
Keep sending the drawings and pictures along with the traveling tales. We love it all.
Fred, Susan, and Priscilla