South of the Tropic of Cancer!

We ate breakfast in the cockpit yesterday morning as we rounded Cabo San Lucas’ famous rock arches.   After seeing only pangas and the odd tanker for a couple of weeks, we were struck by the hubub of sportfishing boats and other tour boats around us. We rounded the Cape, put our dishes in the sink and trimmed sails to beat the final 10 miles to San Jose del Cabo where we are tied up now. We’ve sailed about 850 miles since we left the US. The boat is as still as a house.

We were glad to have our friend JT aboard for much of the trip down the coast, and it was exciting that Alma and Arlo stood their first watches without us!  We anchored in the beautiful Bahia San Quintin, Bahia Tortuga and Bahia Magdalena—in each place we got ashore to to stretch our legs and see the place after nights at sea. Here in San Jose, we were so glad to connect with a former owner of DEBONAIR who rebuilt her in the 90’s after she was hit by a barge. We also been taken out on the town by a former colleague of Jason’s whom we ran into on a few days ago on a beach in the remote Bahia Magdalena.

Arlo and Alma will likely each post over the next couple of days, but for now, I leave you with a few pictures from our voyage south along the coast of Baja California. We’re looking forward to heading to mainland Mexico in a couple days. Thank you all for your kind, funny, thoughtful, encouraging messages, here and by email.

Alma at dawn

Debonair anchored at Bahia Tortuga

Clamming at San Quintin. So many clams! An hour after this picture we swamped the dinghy in the surf, but saved all the clams for the pot.
A few of the dozens of clams we dug at San Quintin
Anticipation
A view of the Pacific from a hilltop at Bahia Magdalena
Jason’s working on the dinghy mast step here. We’ve repaired a lot of the things in the last couple weeks: the engine gear shift cable (underway), the catches for two cabinets and a drawer, the windvane steering hub mount (underway—Jason had the jigsaw and grinder going while we rolled down 7-8’ seas), the stove fiddles (thank you, JT!), and the dinghy oar leathers, among other things.
So long! JT left us in Bahia Magdalena.

 

Arlo’s first fish, a bonito! So much better than the seagull he caught next on the line 🙁        I promise we won’t post pictures of every fish.

 

 

Walking the long way into town at Bahia Tortuga

 

Boy and skull

 

Dawn outside Bahia Magdalena

24 thoughts on “South of the Tropic of Cancer!”

  2. SO awesome. That last photo of dawn, that’s beautiful enough to be a postcard. I’m loving all the updates and keeping you in my thoughts, with Prayers for safe travel and great weather. Looking forward to the next update.
    Love,
    Cousin In Kansas
    Lou Anne

  3. I am so amazed and impressed by all of your stories. It is a pleasure to follow you all on your journey, especially to hear of how Arlo and Alma seem so comfortable with such an intense adventure! Please tell Jason that Sue from UCONN/London says hello and is excited to follow the adventure!
    Sue Leone

  4. Hello Caitlin, Jason and kids,
    Ted Lyman here. You remember staying on our boat at Caliente Isle YC during a Gunk overnighter when Alma was a newborn or so. Of course, I’ve seen a fair amount of Jason as I’ve come back to the Pier as a volunteer in the past few years. With many others no doubt I’ve been lurking–checking out your blog now and then. I’ve been up and down that coast your just sailed three times on the BaHaHa (many stories but being at the helm downwind on my friend’s Santa Cruz 50 clocking 18 knots is remembered, and seeing the Green Flash on 1/18/07 off Natividad (never forget the date), as well as an accidental jibe at 3 am, in a blow with me clipped in, having just removed the preventer was notable for its pucker factor. The coil of line my hand almost pulled 4 fingers out.) My main reason for writing though is to tell you that reading about your (Caitlin’s) family I was truly surprised to learn that I knew your father quite well! Gary had a small IT company (PSW3?) that I had under contract when I was at Stanford Research Institute in the mid ’70s. We worked together on a half a dozen public sector computer systems studies in the bay area. I remembered that he bought a sailboat and proceeded to sail around the world but to learn that he was your father was more than just a surprise. Great memories! We had a terrific professional relationship for several years. Since I was a policy guy, not an IT guy, he saved me more than once in front of my clients from looking really dumb.
    Back to my lurking…
    Ted

    1. Thank you, Ted, for all the stories, and especially for the great surprise that you knew my dad. We miss him and my mom a lot. As a side note, you might enjoy the book he wrote, The Architect’s Apprentice, about the building of their second boat.

      Glad to have you lurking. Look forward to reconnecting in the Bay Area.

      Caitlin

  5. What a vicarious thrill I,m getting from your postings. I wish you all great weather and fair winds.v

  6. I love these posts! Such an inspiring adventure, and so fun (though not surprising) to hear about your badass kids holding their own! If it makes sense, the town of Chacala (a little north of Sayulita) is a great fishing village/beach town. Probably more developed than when I was there 10+ years ago, but might still be worth a stop:)

    Safe sailing!
    Cara

    1. From Jason:

      Hey Cara, we did end up anchoring in Chacala for a couple nights. Thanks for the tip. The beachfront is pretty thick with restaurants and hotels, but they’re small and low key and the town still has a nice low key feel. It was the first place the kids really got to play in the surf.

  7. Hallo all! I’m really enjoying all the pictures and stories you are posting!! Looks like Arlo’s catch could keep you in food for a bit! Must have been so much fun for him!! Can’t get over the kiddos keeping watch! That’s tremendous! I’m thinking you may never want to come back! Such a great adventure! I’m on MarineTraffic so I’ve been stalking you as you travel! Lol!

  8. What an experience! Arlo and Alma may never want to return to boring ole’ school in the US. Love all the pictures and stories! So impressive!

  9. Lovely part of the world, clear warm water and lots of wildlife. I hope you’ve been surrounded by schools of tuna speeding through the water and the dolphins that follow them.

    Wishing you kind winds and friendly seas.

  10. Caitlin and fam: I love seeing these posts. This is so awe inspiring. Keep me coming when you can! I will relish then.

  12. The former owner of the Debonair must have been so happy to see the new vitality Jason restored to this beautiful boat. What a legacy she continues to create.
    Your pictures & writings are much appreciated. Safe sailing as you continue.

  14. Oh my, so happy to be reading of your world,fantastic.
    Glad to hear if of the repairs being done-strong work as an old boss of mine used to say and that you are not just doing a lot of lazing about waiting to admire the pretty sunsets!
    I was actually talking of you all yesterday as I chatted with a young couple I met as I sat watching a the sun set in a teeny harbour on teeny Gulf island in Canada .
    Go easy.
    Jocelyn

  15. I continue to be delighted by your adventure and love reading all the details.
    What a dream come true this is for the family. I am looking forward to
    vicariously sharing the voyage with you. Bon voyage!

    1. Merci, Kaye. I’ve downloaded a bunch of podcasts in French to listen to on night watch on the way to les Isles Marquises!

  16. Isn’t it a small world? You running into someone you know on a beach 850 miles from home. Something like that happened to me while traveling in China. Hope you all enjoyed the clams!

    Kira

  17. Keep those stories and pictures coming!! I’m transfixed to the Marine Tracker app to see where you guys are! Heading to Puerto Villarta? Jason, what’s the perfect wind direction and wind speed for you guys? Come on dude, write us some info on your huge part in this expedition! Haven’t heard much from you! 😍😍😍😍😍

  18. I am loving every single post that you guys write! The stories and images and insight into your adventures…love it!! Thanks so much for sharing.

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