–by Arlo
When we first sighted the Marquesas after 25 days at sea, the mountainous, lush islands rising out of the sea were breathtaking to look at. The sheer-sided mountains rose up to the sky in craggy ridges, and became lost in the clouds. Every inch of the island appeared to be covered in greenery. Bushes, vines, palms and other trees were flourishing. We were all immensely glad that we had made the passage.
We sailed into the crowded harbor and dropped the anchor. Before we had even set foot on shore, a fellow cruising boat gave us a bag stuffed to the brim with pamplemousse, the Marquesan pomelo, and bananas. The first shower in 25 days that we took ashore that afternoon made the day a “10 out of 10” perfect.
The harbor in Atuona where we had anchored was loaded with fishing boats and pirogues (outrigger canoes) and the locals who used them were friendly—the men, usually shirtless and tattooed. They wouldn’t mind you piling in the back of their pick up trucks on the two mile trip to town.
Sometimes it drives me bonkers how I can’t communicate. Whenever I see a fishing boat coming in loaded with Tuna I want to go over and talk with the fisherman about their fishing gear, what they’re catching and what techniques they use. One of the official languages spoken here is French, but I was surprised at how alive Marquesan, or Te E’o Enana, the native language, is.
On the road to town, you passed countless mango, papaya, breadfruit, orange, pamplemousse, and coconut trees, which were full of fruit. When we left that first harbor after five days at anchor, we were loaded down with bananas, 20 pamplemousse, papaya and several bowls of mangos, and we were extremely satisfied.
Now that we have seen a couple of islands, we are getting the feeling that there is possibly even more wildlife than there is fruit, even out here in the middle of the Pacific. There are feral goats that live on the islands, and we have seen both feral pigs, and pigs on leashes. We have seen lots and lots of colorful fish when we were snorkeling in crystal clear water, in addition to the 1000 pound bluefin and yellowfin tuna that the local fishermen catch. There have been crabs on the rocks, massive coconut crabs in burrows, hundreds of exotic seabirds wheeling overhead, eels in the drainage ditches eight foot sharks feeding on fish scraps, manta rays that we swam with, and a menagerie of other assorted critters.
Between the several hundred year old stone tikis, breathtaking mountains and cliffs lush islands teeming with wildlife, delicious fruits and the good food (poisson cru anyone?), I’m liking the Marquesas even more than Mexico.
Thanks to all you readers for your comments. They are much appreciated. Feel free to keep in touch through comments or look for the get in touch section.
Thanks again, Arlo.
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And, from Caitlin & Jason:
Here’s recording of one of the songs that filled the Catholic church here yesterday in Nuku Hiva. Do listen to a bit of it!
And, rowing home from the church service:
