Summer Close Out

–posted by Caitlin + Jason, with photos from the whole crew

Our little dog Moby is glad to have us home again, and we are adjusting well enough to life back ashore. But at first it has seemed odd to have so much space and strange to be around so many people.

Since we posted in Seward, a couple of months ago, we’ve only been to a few towns: first, there was Whittier (population 400, stay of 6 hours), then Yakutat (population 600, stay of 2 days), and Pelican (population 100, stay of 1 hour). Finally , we arrived in Sitka (population 8,000, stay a few days), where we’d planned to leave Debonair for the winter. On finding that the available slips wouldn’t work for Debonair, we pushed on to Petersburg (population 4,000, stay, for Debonair, all winter long). Here she is, covered in her slip in Petersburg, awaiting our return.

So if our last couple months were less town, they were certainly more ice, sky, and mountain, more sea, wood and rock. Back in smoky Alameda (population 80,000, stay for us is all winter), we are feeling thankful for the abundance of those elements in our lives this summer.

We leave you with a few more photos to close out the summer. Thank you for reading and connecting over the past few months of our voyage. We hope you are well wherever you are.

–with love, Caitlin, Jason, Arlo & Alma

In the South Pacific we learned to swim with sharks, and this summer we learned to hike with bears.

We loved hiking–and talking and fishing and eating and adventuring and so much more–with the crew of S/V Dogbark, whom we first met way back in Hawaii.

We swam only a couple of times, here in the coldest, most perfect swimming hole we found up an unnamed creek.

The bears were swimming too. We were surprised enough seeing a couple black bear cruising past Debonair where we lay at anchor in Prince William Sound.

But then we saw this grizzly bear. In this picture Griz pauses, a mile from shore, to check us out as we motor along down a fjord.

Here’s the requisite dead fish picture–a halibut Arlo caught right after we arrived in Southeast Alaska.

And then there’s this lake outside of Yakutat, where it was too foggy to even see the glacier that spills into it.

The glacial lake empties into a river that empties into the sea.

The coast of the Gulf of Alaska is all mountain and glacier. In fact the second and third highest mountains in North America (behind only Denali) rise here from the sea.

There’s not always a lot of wind in Southeast Alaska (although sometimes there’s too much). Here we are fueling up in Pelican.

We sail whenever there is wind.

And when we do sail, it is glorious.

But no matter how good the sailing, standing watch is always better with homemade pizza.

Listen to This

— by Jason

Tomorrow morning we’re scheduled to relaunch Debonair at the boatyard here in Sitka. We’d hoped to work on her out of the water for about a week, but it’s been raining and it’s forecast to continue raining for the foreseeable future, so we cut the haul out short. It was gratifying to work as a family—a team, a crew—on the boat in the yard this year. With limited time, we all worked hard, got dirty and got done what we needed to get done.

Family/Team/Crew

After launching, we’ll push on towards the little village of Petersburg. We’ll move pretty quickly through some beautiful parts of Southeast Alaska, so that we can get there and have time to downrig and winterize the boat. After last winter’s punishing snow, we’ll cover her this year to try to protect her better from the elements.

We’ll send another post from Petersburg about what we’ve been up to since we left Prince William Sound. (The short version is: Alaska continues to amaze us.) For now, I wanted to give you the link to a podcast of a conversation that Caitlin had with a colleague of hers. The conversation begins as a discussion about courage and ends up being about life and challenges and risk and considering your values and how to follow them. We listened to it as a family tonight, and I know I’m biased, but I loved it. For me, what Caitlin talks about in that conversation, and how she says it, is the clearest, most complete and thoughtful distillation of the important parts of what we’re trying to do with our family and this boat.

Listen to Caitlin on the Bright Morning Podcast

We’ll sail through Olga Strait, Neva Strait, Sergius Narrows, Peril Strait, Chatham Strait and Frederick Sound on the way to Petersburg. Tonight, Arlo said he was looking forward to getting underway again. It made me glad to hear that, to be reminded of that. Here in the final days of this summer, as Caitlin and I turn toward the challenges of putting the boat to bed and getting ourselves back into our life at home, we have one more little passage together here in Alaska.