–by Arlo
When we first sighted the Marquesas after 25 days at sea, the mountainous, lush islands rising out of the sea were breathtaking to look at. The sheer-sided mountains rose up to the sky in craggy ridges, and became lost in the clouds. Every inch of the island appeared to be covered in greenery. Bushes, vines, palms and other trees were flourishing. We were all immensely glad that we had made the passage.
We sailed into the crowded harbor and dropped the anchor. Before we had even set foot on shore, a fellow cruising boat gave us a bag stuffed to the brim with pamplemousse, the Marquesan pomelo, and bananas. The first shower in 25 days that we took ashore that afternoon made the day a “10 out of 10” perfect.
The harbor in Atuona where we had anchored was loaded with fishing boats and pirogues (outrigger canoes) and the locals who used them were friendly—the men, usually shirtless and tattooed. They wouldn’t mind you piling in the back of their pick up trucks on the two mile trip to town.
Sometimes it drives me bonkers how I can’t communicate. Whenever I see a fishing boat coming in loaded with Tuna I want to go over and talk with the fisherman about their fishing gear, what they’re catching and what techniques they use. One of the official languages spoken here is French, but I was surprised at how alive Marquesan, or Te E’o Enana, the native language, is.
On the road to town, you passed countless mango, papaya, breadfruit, orange, pamplemousse, and coconut trees, which were full of fruit. When we left that first harbor after five days at anchor, we were loaded down with bananas, 20 pamplemousse, papaya and several bowls of mangos, and we were extremely satisfied.
Now that we have seen a couple of islands, we are getting the feeling that there is possibly even more wildlife than there is fruit, even out here in the middle of the Pacific. There are feral goats that live on the islands, and we have seen both feral pigs, and pigs on leashes. We have seen lots and lots of colorful fish when we were snorkeling in crystal clear water, in addition to the 1000 pound bluefin and yellowfin tuna that the local fishermen catch. There have been crabs on the rocks, massive coconut crabs in burrows, hundreds of exotic seabirds wheeling overhead, eels in the drainage ditches eight foot sharks feeding on fish scraps, manta rays that we swam with, and a menagerie of other assorted critters.
Between the several hundred year old stone tikis, breathtaking mountains and cliffs lush islands teeming with wildlife, delicious fruits and the good food (poisson cru anyone?), I’m liking the Marquesas even more than Mexico.
Thanks to all you readers for your comments. They are much appreciated. Feel free to keep in touch through comments or look for the get in touch section.
Thanks again, Arlo.
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And, from Caitlin & Jason:
Here’s recording of one of the songs that filled the Catholic church here yesterday in Nuku Hiva. Do listen to a bit of it!
And, rowing home from the church service:
Two things stand out for me. I remember how I loved all the amazing fish when I lived in Hawaii. I used to comment on who each one looked like – often someone I did not like.
The church music is a strong reminder of visiting my daughter in Tanzania. I love listening to it. Does the island have African origins? It must have been fun for Alma and Kaitlin to don their dresses.
What is your next big adventure?
sorry – Caitlin
Thanks, Taffy. We are so happy to be here and love all the connections!
Greetings from Alameda! Arlo and Alma, You two are terrific writers. All the detail in your posts made me feel like I was on the Marquesas with you. I’m learning a little geography too. 🙂 Have you had a chance to meet any kids on the islands? Hello to your parents!
So far we have met other crusiers kids, but no local kids because we speak English , and they speak French .
Enjoying your wonderful commentary and experiences at sea. Relish the land and I look forward to you sailing the next leg of the journey. The music was nice. Wish I could play my Uke with thee polonesian harmony.
Sounds magical- have fun exploring you guys!
The music is amazing and I realized I needed to look at a map. Thanks for that!
Maps are great. Thanks for reading & listening! Xo
Loved seeing the pictures of your smiling faces.
Arlo, Dennis will want to hear about all your fishing stories.
Alma and Caitlin, beautiful dresses!
The music is so lovely!
You and Alma do an outstanding job of bringing this whole adventure alive for the rest of us. It’s the next best thing to really being there. So awesome. Keep them coming.
P.S. The music from the church service was absolutely beautiful. Listening to those harmonies. It reminds me of many years ago, back when we used to have family reunions and listening to all of our family singing together, where the harmonies just came naturally. Really beautiful. Thank you so much for sharing it.
Love,
Lou Anne
First a question: Is the singing of a choir, or the parishioners as a whole? I’m guessing the latter, which is incredible. I hear Jason’s and Caitlin’s voice a little in the background, very cool.
Second, an observation: in Louisiana, the word “pirogue” refers to a flat-bottom boat used by fisherman in the bayou. Apparently, pirogue is used to refer to several different kinds of native boats in French colonies. Another connection.
Yes, the whole parish. And yes, in Senegal, pirogue was another kind of canoe!
When we hit play on the recording, Oliver stood up from playing with trains to listen in silence for quite a while. As we scrolled through the photos, he identified you all, wanted to know why you were standing by a rock, and what was that boat you were rowing back to Debonair. He’s come to recognize our Debonair crew T shirts (and asks to wear his own). Great to read the reports from Alma and Arlo and to see pictures!! Xox
The music really is great, I sent it? You can tell Oliver that the rock is a giant statue of a person, and that the boat we are rowing is called pepita. Lots of love from Arlo.
The way you guys write it feels like I’m watching you. It’s such fun to read your posts.
Glad you made it to Marquesas safely. I’m enjoying reading about all of your adventures, of course Aunt Nancy is keeping me updated as well. Enjoy and be safe!
Hi Jason SAL here enjoying following your adventure and enjoying every moment of it I’m actually tracking you on my AIS System so I can actually see where your anchored who’s next to you and where you’re traveling from island to island most of the time sometimes the AIS says you’re out of range but then it picks you up. stay safe enjoy yourself. SAL ALIOTO
Wow, just wow. This is so incredibly I’m speechless. Thank you for letting me follow your adventures.
Eve
Reading your posts just makes me smile and smile. It’s been such a treat to follow your adventures! I love hearing from each one of you. Thank you! Your wonderful, detailed descriptions puts me right into your shoes. Oh…err…maybe you aren’t wearing shoes? Whatever. I just couldn’t believe how far down into the water column you could see the sechi disc. And stars all the way to the horizon. Wow. Rice pudding for breakfast, and all about fishing lures. And now you are finding your footing on land. Wow again. I have a question: Recently I’ve watched the new moon set in the west and it looks like a backwards letter C. I wonder if, from your perspective south of the equator, it appears to be the other way around? I’m curious to hear your answer. Hugs to all of you!