–By Alma
We sailed from Ua Pou, to Fatu Hiva in early July. Like other Marquesans, the locals in Fatu Hiva were very kind — selling us fruit, inviting us over for dinner, etc. Like we did on other Marquesan islands, we hiked to a water fall on Fatu Hiva. It was buggy like the rest, but still really beautiful.
After about a week in Fatu Hiva, we left for the Tuamotu, an archipelago of 78 low-lying coral atolls. Sailing away from the Marquesas, we were greeted by two huge (maybe blue?) whales, who sent us on our way. The passage was good except for one day with lots of squalls. Arlo and I took an extra watch each afternoon, because my parents split the night between just the two of them. The passage took about four and a half days, and today we came to an atoll called Tahanea. Some other cruising families who we met earlier on our trip are here as well. We will celebrate Arlo’s birthday on the 16th here in paradise!
Leaving the Marquesas meant leaving plenty of fresh water, too much fruit (almost), and great hikes, but definitely not coconuts, which there are a lot of in the Tuamotu.
In fact, when we arrived in the Tuamotu, the first things we could see of the island were the palm trees, because the islands are so low, only about five feet above sea level. We entered the atoll’s lagoon through the pass and crossed the lagoon to our first anchorage. We could see the bottom 77 feet down! I am exited for our time in the Tuamotu, but also a little scared. I am exited for white sand beaches, and clear water, and lots of good snorkeling (which we have seen that there is a lot of here). I am scared because in 60 feet of water, there could be a coral head sticking up just below the surface. If the person in the ratlines (a ladder that goes up the mast) does not see it, then you could hit it.
We will miss the bounty of the Marquesas, but we are looking forward to what lies ahead (and I am scared, but just a little). In the photo below you can see the beautiful view from our boat. [end]
Beautiful! Love reading about your journey! Hugs to all!
Wonderful post, Alma! It really does sound like paradise and I think you all are so brave….I would have many fears about such an adventure so I am amazed at how you have overcome yours. Love the updates and I know Ava sends her love. (She is currently on vacation with her Dad and D). ….and Happy Birthday to Arlo!!
It reminds me of my honeymoon in Bora Bora.🌴 Happy Birthday, Arlo! I look forward to hearing how you celebrate. 🎂
We enjoyed your descriptions of the passage from the Marquesas.
It is hard doing open water passages, standing watch at night, and being in charge of the boat. That’s a lot of responsibility, without any control over who is in the water beneath you. I remember doing an open water crossing with Beth and Gary near the Turks and Caicos. it was really hot and we had no wind, so we were motoring. I asked Gary if I could dive off the bowsprit and grab the ladder as the boat came past. “Not a good idea,” was his response, but he cut the engine, let the boat drift a bit and we all went for a swim in REALLY deep, azure-blue waters. Gary tied a rope to his foot – so the boat couldn’t drift away – and the two of us splashed and enjoyed cooling off in the beautiful water. But, was the only time I’d ever seen Beth scared or nervous on the boat. The whole time we were swimming, she never left the side of the boat – the water beneath us “was too deep and unknown.”
Beth and Gary were intrepid sailors – as you have become. You are exploring beautiful parts of the world. Thanks for sharing your adventures.
Happy landfall! Glad you made it in time for Arlo’s birthday, and thank you for the descriptions, Alma— it’s winderful to “see” it through your eyes! 😘
Great job Alma! Loved your update and the photo is spectacular. Happy Birthday Arlo!
Love from Kansas,
Lou Anne
Great post, Alma! You guys are sooooo inspirational! Often during the day I think about you and wonder what you’re doing. I love reading about everything that you get up to. It makes me feel like I can do whatever I need to do because you guys are so adventurous…. if you can do what you’re doing (which is pretty amazing) then I can do the stuff I have do too! Thanks! Love, from Carol and Jesse (Happy Birthday Arlo!)
Tell me if you run across a coconut with a fuzzy ball inside instead of water…it’s supposed to be a delicacy! Kinda like coconut flavored cotton candy.
Happy birthday Arlo and we enjoy your posts very much. Looking forward to reading next adventures.
Hi guys, how are doing? we just came back from France, that is why we couldn’t give you news about Moby. Moby is doing really good as always. He is shedding even more than before! His an awesome dog!
We are super sorry we couldn’t give you news about Moby sooner! Hope you were not worried. I hope you are having fun on your trip and we miss you guys!
Hi this is Adrien, our trip to France was awesome we went to the mountain and the sea with family. We also stayed at our grandparents house. I hope your trip is going well and I wish you guys good traveling.
Hey!
Good to hear from you guys! Glad to hear that Moby is doing well. We were not worried. Hope to talk to you guys soon.
-Alma
Hi Leonie & adrian! Thank you! Hugs to you & moby.
So great to read your update, Alma! I knew Debonair was leaving the Marquesas and was glad to hear that you reached your destination. No more bananas? Hello coconuts! Sometime when you have a chance I’d love to know what it’s like, from your point of view, to stand watch. I mean, I know you “watch” but … exactly what does it mean? Oodles of love –